Denier. Start here. It’ll tell you almost everything about how a pair will actually behave. Under 20 and you’ll read it as bare legs with a whisper of sheen – great for summer nights out or lunches when the aim is subtlety rather than warmth. 50 Denier is comfortably opaque without appearing sculptural. If you’re heading into the high eighties or wool blends you’re doing something different entirely – these are closer to leggings than tights and probably should be treated as such.
Fabric type is something worth considering too.
A decent pair of tights will have a waistband that sits flat (rather than rolls), a gusset that’s been considered as part of the design rather than an afterthought, and a fine enough toe seam that it won’t show through your shoes.
Bad tights will unravel after a few wears at the ankle (laddering) or simply stretch out after one wash if you’ve bought something cheap.
Fabric content is something worth considering too – look for a touch of elastane to help your tights recover after wear, washing and wearing, rather than cotton, viscose or cheaper nylon blends that’ll start to bag around the knees come lunchtime.
As for how you wear them, black is obvious but oh-so-versatile. Sheer black tights under a skirt or tailored shorts when it’s too chilly for bare legs, opaque tights built a dress into fall and winter by wearing them with boots and a longer coat so that your leg reads as one elongated line rather than three separate textures playing tug of war. If you want to wear patterns and textures then keep your outfit streamlined so the legs become the focus, not the dogs having a fight with your trousers. Stick to a plain shoe with ribbed or interestingly-patterned tights – a loafer or round toe pump work best as anything too intricate on the foot will clash rather than complement.
Despite what you’ve been told they’re perfect year round, not just when the weather turns. Sheer neutrals will see you through office outfits and evening events alike. Opaques will keep you warm in lighter fabrics as seasons and temperatures change, and a brilliant pair of coloured tights can turn a basic outfit into something with swagger for parties or daytime events that demand something more interesting than your average bare leg.
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