Somewhere between jacket and sweater resides the jacket-liche sweater: the zip through cardigan. It lives up to its billing by functioning as an outer layer, but wearing as knitwear. It’s a smaller category than you’d think: zips are essential. They give the piece structure that a button front or open cardi will never have, clinging considerately to your torso rather than flapping open with each stride. Look for zip throughs with a sufficiently hefty gauge that won’t stretch at the zip or seam, and that the zip itself is applied smoothly. Many are cut with fabric that behaves more like jumper than jacket, which makes the front placket ripple and the whole garment lose credibility after few wears. Fit is key here more than any other knit shape. Too small and restrictive and it will function merely as a layering piece, rather than stand alone item of clothing, restricting movement and pulling unpleasantly across your shoulders when worn zipped. Too big and it loses all shape whatsoever, defeating the point of choosing a zip through cardigan over a cardigan you just tie or leave open. Examples that do work well tend to sit closely through shoulder and torso, with sleeves set at the correct angle to ensure the zip doesn’t pull across your arm when you move them, and worn to a length that falls at your hip rather than climbing up your butt or drowning your frame. Once you’ve nailed the fit, it should largely be worn to exaggerate that shape. Zippered over a shirt or thin polo it looks like and functions as a jacket without anywhere near the bulk. That makes it perfect for season creep; those in between days when the weather can’t make up it’s mind. Open over a plain tee it softens things; it’s far more office layer or hotel closet essential, where you want something with some shape to it but won’t look silly even half undone. It’s a match made in heaven with straight trousers and loafers for anything in between (business casual, am I right?). or equally as useful with jeans and trainers if your day begins with errands and ends casual. Speaking of casual… where the zip through cardigan really shines, is when your day doesn’t. Pop up restaurants, unpredictable spring and autumn weather, traveling, the school run, lazy weekends that involve running from outdoors to indoors (and back again) without notice or expectation of dressing appropriately. It’s versatile because it doesn’t really belong to any particular occasion. It’s a piece that should just work whenever you need it to.
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